7/1/2023 0 Comments Cetus3d extended![]() ![]() Its a complex and large model with a lot of support stalks needed. There are no other bubbles and no stringing obvious to me. However see the following closeup of the failed print for a single “bubble” of filament that was on the print around the time it failed. ![]() The nozzle end had a bubble blob and the rubber cap had been pulled off during the print but that can occur with all sorts of problems. One other piece of the puzzle I just noticed with this last print is a bubble. Some of my failed nozzles that had the same issue, the dark filament one is a good carbon fiber filament. I have no way to film in place a closeup that shows what happens, plus i’ve already spent way too much trying to diagnose this problem. It may also be the molten plastic inside the nozzle isnt being extruded fast enough and on longer print sessions it builds up and overflows out the top causing the jamming blob. ![]() I’m thinking that the top of the steel part of the nozzle where the filament enters is accumulating too much heat and softening the filament before it enters causing it to buckle and form the blob which then prevents extrusion completely. So the problem is not a one off for me but a consistent problem. This is typical on other nozzles I’ve put aside too. See the following photo for the muffin top blob in place: Below is a closer photo showing this blob and you can easily see where the cog teeth grip thefilament hard trying to pull it through and where it strats to fail and just gring away at the filament. Originally I thought it may have been dust or particles clogging the extruder tip but I’ve noticed the past few months a regular “muffin-top” blob of plastic on top of the nozzle shaft, i usually have to cut this off to remove the nozzle to replace it and take off the extruder cover and clean plastic shavings from the cog. Sometimes if the print is small it’ll finish but larger prints or many prints it fails to extrude during the print resulting in the following: The print, until it stops extruding, is good and clean with no sign of thining extrusion or blobs/shears etc. I have no mods on my machine except for a cable guide to keep the rainbow cable on top from getting lose or catching on the vertical rail and I’m using only the cetus software v2.2.28.44 on Windows 7 64bit.Anyway it usually prints well, when cleaned extruder cog and new nozzle installed and a well dried filament. It just worked reliable but the past year it reliably clogs instead forcing me to replace the nozzle. I typically use the 0.4 nozzle, having never been able to get the 0.2 working, I use 0.6 when I run out of 0.4 nozzles.Initially me printer was bulletproof and printed well day after day, with any brand of filament,new and old. My printer is a Cetus3D Extended Mk II with heated bed and a GeckoTek Ez-Stick Hot surface. ![]() Also needs some insulation between bottom of exension board and cover to prevent short circuit.Reading others posts i’ve been having the same sort of problem as theirs and after trying all the suggests and spending enough on another printer replacing extruder several times and a ton of nozzle replacements too. Modified spacer can be installed after cover was installed. I had to remove spacer on power switch to slide cover back in place. Also jumper needs to be installed on back of trinamic driver to get chip's serial connected to pin #5(PDN).Īfter board was installed it was hard to put cover back on. Motor pins on stepsticks were soldered pointing upward to get original connectors to fit. Printed board can be made with tonner transfer method since it's simple one sided design. I left extruder on original driver since it's not that loud anyway. Reference voltage on my printer is set to: x 0.15v, y 0.1v, z 0.2v. I think maximum current should be no more than 400mA. Can't find any information about cetus motors. My printer has stepper motors with 31 ohms coil resistance, so current has to be set low. Three steppers version has separate serial connections to drivers, so current can be set for each motor individualy. It also can be set by Attiny's firmware, but only for same current for all axis in four steppers version. By default current is set by adjusting referense voltage with the potentiometer. Original stepper drivers in Cetus3d printer are set for 32 microsteps, so I added Attiny85 to configure trinamic drivers for 32 microsteps. This is TMC2208 stepstick drivers extension board for Cetus3d mk3 printer. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |